05 – St Agnes

05 – St Agnes

The key landscape characteristic of this section of Cornwall National Landscape is the dominant large granite intrusion that forms the distinctive St Agnes Beacon, which rises from the surrounding undulating coastal plateau (formed of slate killas) to a height of approximately 90m above sea level. The plateau itself is dissected by small streams flowing to the north coast and outcrops of craggy grey cliffs that slant away from the sea with wide expanses of sandy beach revealed at low tide.

Character areas

05 St Agnes

  • Character areas

    CA12: St Agnes
    CA14: Newlyn Downs
  • Areas covering the coast

    MCA 45: Port Gaverne Bay to St Ives Bay

Special Qualities of St Agnes

The Key Landscape Characteristic of this section of the AONB is the dominant large granite intrusion that forms the distinctive St Agnes Beacon, which rises from the surrounding undulating coastal plateau (formed of slate killas) to a height of approximately 90m above sea level. The plateau itself is dissected by small streams flowing to the north coast and outcrops of craggy grey cliffs that slant away from the sea with wide expanses of sandy beach revealed at low tide.

Photo credit Chris Jones
Photo credit Chris Jones

The general character and attraction of this area is its open and exposed landscape with very limited tree cover except in narrow valleys, where it forms an important part of the landscape character. The openness of the clifftop landscape reveals extensive areas of coastal heathland that are exposed to the worst of weathers, this being further evidenced by the windblown heather. Areas that were previously disturbed by mining activity are now colonised by this heathland, which provides a contrast with the complex pattern of regular but small-scale enclosures of former miner’s smallholdings so typical of the mining landscapes of Cornwall.

Between the fields and across the heathland there are numerous old mining tracks, which are still in regular use providing a network of informal access paths. Clusters of houses which once housed

miners and their families shelter in the coastal valleys and have a rough appearance that complements the derelict engine houses. The conversion of buildings formerly related to the mining landscape and redevelopment of other buildings and structures is beginning to erode the local landscape character. At Trevaunance Cove the huge granite blocks of a long-ruined harbour are revealed at low tide lying scattered across the shore. Typical local building materials include killas walling, slate roofs and granite detailing. Many remnants of the former mining industry including engine houses, chimneys, spoil heaps and shafts are scattered across the coastal landscape. Large expanses of rocky bare ground, stained rust red with iron ore still exist at Cligga Head, Trevaunance Cove, Wheal Kitty, Higher Bal and atop Mulgram Hill, overlooking Chapel Porth. The Wheal Coates engine house poised on the edge of the heathland-clad coastal slope above Chapel Porth is viewed against breath-taking expansive coastal views and is widely recognised as an iconic image of the Cornish coast.

Nowadays, St Agnes is a hotspot for landscape inspired arts and craft (and craft ales) and the village has many shops and galleries whose wares reflect the exceptional nature of the AONB landscape, coast and seascape.

Land Use

Fields are mainly small rectilinear improved pasture reflecting historic miner’s smallholdings. They are archetypical of the mining landscapes of Cornwall and a distinctive element of the field pattern in this area. Between the fields and across open heathland numerous old mining tracks are still in use providing a network of informal access.

Significant Landowners

The National Trust manages St Agnes Beacon, plus a coastal strip from Tubby’s Head through to Wheal Coates, Chapel Coombe and Wheal Charlotte north of Porthtowan.

Key species of interest for this section

  • Solitary (mining) bees
  • Adder
  • Common lizard
  • Peregrine
  • Green hairstreak
  • Grey seal
  • Cornish gorse
  • Bell heather

Biodiversity & Geodiversity

The underlying geology is coursed with rich mineral veins that gave rise to extensive mining during the 17th, 18th and 19th century, an industry which thrived on the strength of the high-quality tin, copper, lead and iron available in the St Agnes area. Local tradition boasts that ‘St Agnes produced the finest tin in Cornwall’.

Whilst there is a marked absence of trees in exposed areas, scrub and broadleaved woodland is developing along streams. Drainage from some old mine workings forms pools that support a wealth of wildlife. On the coastal slopes at the north edge of Porthtowan windblown sand including broken seashells supports lime-loving flowering plants that contrast with the heathland vegetation of more acidic soils.

Culture and Heritage

Whilst the mining industry has carved its shape on the historic landscape of St Agnes, there are other historic remains including The St Agnes Beacon, ancient burial mounds, which date back to the Bronze Age as well as the Bolster Bank earthwork providing evidence of an early Iron Age settlement. More recent 20th century activity includes the runways and dispersal point of the World War II airfield on the cliff tops west of Trevellas.

The harbour, constructed in 1798, supported a fishing industry and allowed for the export of copper ore and the import of coal from south Wales for the smelters at the mines and later, during the 19th century, as a hub for pilchard fishing. Piles of huge granite blocks in Trevaunance Cove, visible at low tide are all that remains now of the old harbour which collapsed in a storm in the early 1900s.

Every year in May, the Bolster festival takes place on the stunning cliffs at Chapel Porth beach. It tells the tale of the Giant Bolster who, having ravaged the locality and terrified the locals, is finally brought to his comeuppance by a fair village maiden.

In addition, the St Agnes Carnival is the highlight of the village social calendar with fancy dress abound, dating back well over a hundred years, to the time when the village streets would have been lined with miners and fishermen, bal-maidens and fishwives.

The Cornish hedges which criss-cross the land consist mainly of rubble stone from local killas which  incorporate unweathered, mineralised mine spoil, providing a valuable habitat for both native flora and fauna.

Cornish Hedges

In many locations the sparsely vegetated slate Cornish hedges display the characteristic ‘Jack and Jane’ herringbone pattern of alternating diagonal courses. Tamarisk, whose soft appearance belies its toughness against salt laden sea winds, tops many hedges near the coast creating shelter in an otherwise unremittingly exposed environment.

Partnerships and Neighbourhood Plans
Partnerships and Neighbourhood Plans

Partnerships and Neighbourhood Plans

  • St Agnes Neighbourhood Development Plan
  • A St Agnes Conservation Area Appraisal (conservation and enhancement of local settlement character) has been produced.
  • Perranzabuloe Parish Council prepared a Management Strategy for Cligga Head

Other Designations

Cornwall and West Devon Mining Landscape World Heritage Site is contiguous with the majority of the St Agnes Cornwall AONB section.

St Agnes Voluntary Marine Conservation Area is active in the area.

The AONB section falls partly within the Godrevy Head to St. Agnes SSSI.

Landscape Condition

State of the AONB Report 2021

  • Existing and more recent development above both sides of the beach at Porthtowan is out of character as is some more recent development at Trevaunance Cove (materials used, scale, massing and design).
  • Property development at St Agnes has extended beyond the local characteristic valley settlement pattern and vernacular built form and is now beginning to impact upon the AONB.
  • Perranporth airfield (partially in the AONB) includes visually intrusive features and can impact upon the tranquillity of the area.
  • Instability of some existing mining structures resulting in progressive deterioration.
  • Footpath erosion on coastal heathland from overuse of unmarked routes at Trevellas Coombe, Chapel Porth and Porthtowan.
  • Coastal heathland in varying condition with some areas displaying serial succession of scrub vegetation.

In This Section

Scheduled Monuments in Section 05

The Monumental Improvement project will ensure that 38 Scheduled Monuments in the Cornwall National Landscape will be better identified, supported and enjoyed by a wide range of communities and visitors.

St Piran’s Oratory

One of the most important cultural sites in Cornwall, St Piran’s Oratory is a place full of legend and mystery.

Monument Types

Monument Period

St Piran’s Oratory

Chapel Porth Chapel

Hidden beneath the grassy slopes above Chapel Porth beach lie the remains of a medieval chapel, once a special place of worship with legendary connections.

Chapel Porth Chapel

St Agnes Beacon

St Agnes Beacon is a prominent landmark in Cornwall, known for its stunning views stretching from St Ives to Bodmin Moor. This Bronze Age barrow is believed to have once served as a burial site for a local chief. Later, it was used as a fire beacon to signal coastal threats. In the 18th century, a tower stood atop the Beacon, offering scenic vistas before eventually collapsing, leaving behind remnants that shaped the mound’s appearance​​.

St Agnes Beacon

Case Studies

Policies & Objectives

The policies and objectives below are applicable to this Local Section – they should, however, be read in conjunction with the Cornwall AONB Strategy Aims, Policies and Objectives which are applicable to the whole designation.

Policies

Objectives