12 – Bodmin Moor

12 – Bodmin Moor

The key landscape characteristics of this section of Cornwall National Landscape is a distinctive upland landscape which is created from the underlying granite mass, the largest of several granite intrusions that penetrate the slate killas bedrock along the spine of Cornwall. The highest point of the moor is in the northwest at Brown Willy a peak of 420m. Across the valley, the slightly lower Roughtor hosts the remains of a 12th century medieval chapel, and together, they represent the highest points of land in Cornwall.

Previous Section
Current Section: 12

Character areas

12 Bodmin Moor

  • Character areas

    CA21: Fowey Valley
    CA22: South East Cornwall Plateau
    CA26: East Cornwall and Tamar Moorland Fringe
    CA29: Middle Tamar Valley
    CA32: Bodmin Moor
    CA33: Camel and Allen Valleys

Special Qualities of Bodmin Moor

The Key Landscape Characteristics of this section of the AONB is a distinctive upland landscape which is created from the underlying granite mass, the largest of several granite intrusions that penetrate the slate killas bedrock along the spine of Cornwall. The highest point of the moor is in the northwest at Brown Willy a peak of 420m. Across the valley, the slightly lower Roughtor hosts the remains of a 12th century medieval chapel, and together, they represent the highest points of land in Cornwall.

Photo credit Julie Taylor
Photo credit Julie Taylor

The moor provides expansive and breathtaking views, including towards other sections of the Cornwall AONB on the north coast. The surrounding moorland is gently undulating with frequent, prominent tors (rounded hills capped with a granite outcrop). The naturally formed Cheesewring tor has given its name to an internationally recognised geological category of tor and is an often-used iconic image of moorland Cornwall. The tors provide and distinctive silhouette against an extensive skyline, further emphasised by the lack of man-made structures and intrusive development.

Land Use

Human settlement across the moor is sparse. A small number of lonely granite farms can be found hunkering down below the brow of the hills on the exposed moor itself. Whereas the valleys on the edge of the moor provide sheltered hollows better suited for farming practice and village settlement such as St Breward, St Neot and St Cleer. include the three reservoirs: Colliford Lake, Crowdy Reservoir and Siblyback Lake.

These large expanses of water provide dramatic and very changeable seasonal contrasts from sparkling azure on a bright summer day to drab, grey and eerie in the winter.

The smaller Dozmary Pool, close to Colliford Lake, is the largest and most notable of the many pools found across the moor. The overall sense of wilderness on Bodmin Moor still endures, despite thousands of years of human intervention. It remains one of the few places in Cornwall where you can enjoy complete peace, quiet and tranquillity, being particularly important for its dark night skies.

Extensive, unenclosed high moorland is grazed by hardy weather-beaten cattle, sheep and ponies according to historic laws governing common land. This grazing plays an essential role in controlling scrub thereby maintaining the distinctive openness of this landscape. In parts the moor has never been enclosed. In other areas, past efforts at enclosure are long abandoned leaving enigmatic vestiges of past attempts to tame the land.

Edging the open moorland, larger fields show enduring recent enclosure whilst nestling in sheltered folds at lower levels anciently enclosed farmland is recognisable by its smaller fields with irregular boundaries. This long historic process of attempts to tame the open moor has created a fascinating texture of intermingling pockets of commons and enclosures that distinguishes Bodmin Moor from most other upland landscapes.

Bodmin Moor complete rainbow - Steve Batt
Bodmin Moor complete rainbow – Steve Batt

Significant Landowners

  • The National Trust own land at Roughtor
  • Much of the moorland is registered common land, subject to management under the Commons Act 2006.

Biodiversity & Geodiversity

The uplands of Bodmin Moor are extensively covered with open moorland consisting mainly of coarse grassland, wetland and wet heathland, which includes scrub, bracken and gorse. Much of the northern section of the Moor is designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI). The peaty soil is generally poor with high acid content which in turn has a significant influence on vegetation providing a suitable environment for acid grassland, heather, gorse and bracken, grazed by small flocks of sheep, together with small herds of cattle and moorland ponies.

In the valleys at the edge of the moor there are large areas of peat and blanket bog. Due to its exposed nature, Bodmin Moor is frequently subjected to high winds and rain blown in from the Atlantic and this in turn has influenced the type of vegetation. Many streams and small rivers traverse the Moor having penetrated weaknesses in the granite and eventually cascade into shallow falls at the edge of the granite shelf. The deep river valleys around the edges of the moor support luxuriant broadleaved woodland adding to the enclosed intimacy of these locations. Stately mature Beech trees are especially characteristic of the Fowey valley (Fowey means ‘River of Beech Trees’ in Cornish). Isolated modern conifer plantations however add a dark and sombre contrast to the open moorland.

Gorse and bracken add to the roughness of the unimproved acid grassland of some commons whilst at the heads of streams on higher ground between hills poor drainage and substantial rainfall create a rich and

interesting patchwork of fens, wetlands, quaking bogs and other valuable habitats emphasising the sense of remote exposure.

Golitha Falls is a geological feature, where the river Fowey tumbles down a series of low waterfalls bounded by large mounds of lichen covered granite and runs through an ancient wooded valley of sessile oak and ash – a complete contrast to the barren moor upstream. The area surrounding Golitha Falls is rich in flora and fauna and is one of the three National Nature Reserves in Cornwall.

Photo of a waterfall rushing through a deeply wooded landscape

Key species of interest for this section:

  • Fritillary butterflies (pearl, small pearl and marsh)
  • Cuckoo
  • Redstart
  • Nationally rare liverworts (Greater Copperwort)
  • Bog plants (bog bean, round-leaved sundew)
  • Wintering Golden Plover
  • Snipe
  • Curlew
  • Lapwing
  • Whinchat

Other Designations

  • SSSI & National Nature Reserve (NNR), International Dark Sky Park (IDSP).
  • Parts of the south-eastern part of the Moor around Minions and Caradon Hill are designated as part of the Cornwall and West Devon Mining World Heritage Site.

Culture & Heritage

Bodmin Moor is hugely important historically. The open moorland reveals historic relics such as long cairns and hilltop enclosures from the Neolithic period. In addition, evidence of Bronze Age activity can be found in a ritual and domestic landscape of hut circles, barrows, cairns and stone circles, the most notable being the famous Hurlers Stone Circles near Minions. In some areas, the land has never been enclosed, although around the stony remains of prehistoric roundhouses and medieval long houses, remnants of ancient field boundaries can be clearly seen.

Significant numbers of surviving holy wells and stone crosses are poignant reminders of the enduring  importance of religion in the history of Bodmin Moor’s communities. Some of the older granite quarries make a positive contribution to the landscape for example at Carbilly Tor and Bearah Tor, and particularly the historic stone finger dumps. Partially flooded China clay workings occur at Lower Hawkstor, Parson’s Pit and Stannon Pit where this product of weathered granite has been found close to the surface. Prominent engine houses and

mining structures, especially in the southeast of the moor near Caradon Hill and at Minions, are a reminder of Cornwall and Bodmin Moor’s once great mining industry. The bleak central hamlet of Bolventor (named after a ‘bold venture’ to recover tin from moorland streams) is home to the Jamaica Inn, made world famous by the writings of Daphne du Maurier.

To celebrate 60 years of the Cornwall AONB designation and 4,000 years of the humble Cornish hedge, a permanent piece of public art has been created at Colliford Lake. Kerdroya is a 56m diameter classical labyrinth built of Cornish stone hedging celebrating the aesthetics of distinct hedging styles from 12 Cornish locations. At the very heart of Kerdroya, a 10m circular space opens out to breathtaking views across the moorland and lake.

Here you will find a one-off specially commissioned artwork funded by Arts Council England and created by Thrussells, which augments and deepens the Kerdroya experience.

Cornish Hedge

Almost all enclosed fields are semiimproved pasture for livestock grazing and there is little arable farmland. Cornish hedges and retaining banks are constructed of the ubiquitous ever-present weathered local granite taken directly from the surface of the moor. High up the hedges are often of bare stone, at most supporting just a sparse turf topping or maybe a few gnarled and wind sculpted hawthorns, whilst at lower sheltered locations they support dense walls of mature Beech and native broadleaved trees such as Sessile Oak and Hazel.

Some old hedges are deteriorating from long term lack of maintenance leading in places to the erecting of barbed wire fencing alongside.

Partnerships & Neighbourhood Plan

  • Blisland Neighbourhood Development Plan is designated
  • St Cleer Neighbourhood Development Plan
  • Parish Plans exist for St Neot, St Breward, Blisland, St Cleer and Linkinhorne.
  • The Bodmin Moor Development and Communication plan was created in Partnership with the AONB and representatives of the Bodmin Moor Working Group.
  • The Bodmin Moor Parishes Network seek to pursue the following objectives; to foster and promote vitality and viability of the area; to regenerate the local economy; generate support for sustainable social, recreational and environmental initiatives; consolidate all relevant organisations and individuals to work in partnership and act as the consultative body for economic, social and environmental regeneration of the area.
  • The ‘Vision for Bodmin Moor’ seeks to establish a plan for shared agreement between agencies, landowners and commoners for the management of habitats and historic landscapes of unenclosed land within the moorland line only.
  • Much of the moorland is registered open access land governed by the Countryside and Rights of Way Act (CROW) 2000.
  • The Bodmin Moor Commons Council was legally established under the Commons Act 2006 in 2015 and aims to better manage animal welfare and combat anti-social behaviour on the moor as well as wider land management issues.
  • Active quarrying operations are controlled under the Review of Mineral Planning Permissions – quarrying under existing planning permissions at Parsons Park Pit, Stannon Pit (china clay) and Tor Down Quarry (granite) will not be resumed following the making of Prohibition Orders.

Landscape Condition

State of the AONB Report 2021

Large scale china clay extraction at Parson’s Pit and adjacent to the AONB at Stannon Pit has ceased and parts of both sites have been restored.

Increased visitor numbers at popular locations such as Golitha Falls, and Minions have led to footpath and ground erosion.

Some historic mining structures remain un-stabilised including the two engine houses at Sharptor and other structures at Wheal Bray and Phoenix.

Some aspects of the A30 are visually intrusive intrude on the moorland setting such as the use of coloured tarmac, signage, advertising hoardings and detailing. Traffic noise locally erodes tranquillity.

Broadleaved woodland in stream valleys is largely unmanaged

A number of old hedges have deteriorated from lack of maintenance and barbed wire stock fencing has been erected alongside.

Some existing conifer plantations are visually intrusive due to their design and location.

The moor remains relatively free of tall structures. However, wind turbines towards the north coast outside of the AONB are a detractor.

In This Section

Scheduled Monuments in Section 12

The Monumental Improvement project will ensure that 38 Scheduled Monuments in the Cornwall National Landscape will be better identified, supported and enjoyed by a wide range of communities and visitors.

Tresibbet Medieval Hamlets

Tresibbet is the remains of a small medieval farming hamlet(s) on Bodmin Moor, where people lived and worked nearly 800 years ago.

Tresibbet Medieval Hamlets

Goodaver Stone Circle

The Goodaver Stone Circle is a ring of tall granite stones on Bodmin Moor, where about 23 big standing slabs make a circle nearly 32 metres wide.

Monument Types

Monument Period

Goodaver Stone Circle

Trewortha Farm Hut Circles

Tucked away on the edge of Bodmin Moor, these three stone hut circles have been quietly sitting here for thousands of years.

Monument Types

Monument Period

Trewortha Farm Hut Circles

Bearah Tor Boundaries

The Bearah Tor Boundaries are prehistoric stone banks and a cairn on Bodmin Moor that once marked out ancient land divisions and burial places, now hidden in parts by bracken and gorse

Bearah Tor Boundaries

Blackcoombe Farm Long Cairn

A Neolithic long cairn and associated prehistoric field systems located on Bearah Common, eastern Bodmin Moor.

Blackcoombe Farm Long Cairn

Bearah Common Cist

Hidden on the quiet Bearah Common, this small, grassy bump holds a secret from the Bronze Age, a simple stone grave where someone was carefully buried over 4,000 years ago.

Bearah Common Cist

Wardbrook Farm Prehistoric Cist

The rectangular arrangement of stones near Wardbrook Farm is the remains of a cist, a type of funerary monument built during the Bronze Age, between 2600 and 800 BC.

Wardbrook Farm Prehistoric Cist

Blackcoombe Farm Transhumance Hut

Tucked away on the wild slopes of Bodmin Moor, this tiny stone hut tells the story of how early medieval herders lived during summer months in the hills.

Monument Types

Monument Period

Blackcoombe Farm Transhumance Hut

Stowe’s Hill Fort

High on the wild moorland of Bodmin, Stowe’s Hill Fort has stood for thousands of years. This rocky hill hides ancient secrets – stone walls, burial places and even homes where people once lived, gathered and looked after animals. It’s a place where the past peeks through the stones, telling stories from long ago.

Stowe’s Hill Fort

Nine Stones Circle

High up on Bodmin Moor, Nine Stones Circle is a peaceful and mysterious Bronze Age site where people gathered over 4,000 years ago maybe to mark the seasons, hold ceremonies, or honour their beliefs.

Nine Stones Circle

King Arthur’s Hall

Hidden away on Bodmin Moor, King Arthur’s Hall is a mysterious Neolithic monument built over 5,000 years ago.

King Arthur’s Hall

Emblance Downs Stone Circles

Emblance Downs Stone Circles are an important prehistoric site on Bodmin Moor, featuring two distinct stone circles. The western circle is  better preserved, with six upright stones and at least one fallen, while the eastern circle is more difficult to see, with only two stumps and four fallen stones remaining. These circles, dating back to the Bronze Age, are thought to have been used for ceremonial purposes by early inhabitants, adding mystery to the landscape.

Emblance Downs Stone Circles

Fox Tor Stone Alignment

Fox Tor Stone Alignment is a prehistoric monument on the wild moorlands of Cornwall dating back to the late Neolithic or early Bronze Age.

Fox Tor Stone Alignment

Case studies from section 12

Regeneration of Treveddoe Farm

Treveddoe Farm, located in Warleggan within Section 12 (Bodmin moor) of Cornwall National Landscape, underwent a remarkable transformation through the Farming in Protected Landscapes (FiPL) programme. Led by farmer Ben…

BEAST

The BEAST (Bodmin Environment Arts Science Theatre) project was an innovative initiative by Cornwall National Landscape designed to connect communities with nature through art and cultural experiences. Rooted in the…

Projects from section 12

Farming in Protected Landscapes

Farming in Protected Landscapes

Project Description

Farming in Protected Landscapes (FiPL) is a programme providing grant-funding for Farmers and Landowners designed to deliver for People, Place, Nature and Climate. The programme is funded by Defra and delivered by Cornwall National Landscape.

Project Aim

FiPL is helping to address the climate and biodiversity crisis, improve people’s engagement with the landscape, and support sustainable farm businesses and communities.

The Heart of Natural Beauty - Landscape Connections

The Heart of Natural Beauty – Landscape Connections

Project Description

Our aim is to strengthen the living connections between people, place, nature and climate so that Cornwall’s landscapes can thrive for generations to come.

Project Aim

To connect people, place, nature, and climate through digital innovation, amplifying voices and protecting Cornwall’s natural and cultural heritage.

Cornish Hedges

Cornish Hedges

Project Description

Some Cornish Hedges are over 3,500 yrs old! Making them one of the oldest human-made structures still used for their original purpose. As old as the Pyramids, neither a hedgerow or a dry-stone wall, they are unique and mainly found in Cornwall.

Project Aim

Despite their importance, there is a significant gap in evidence at scale to fully capture the contributions of Cornish Hedges to ecosystem services and natural capital value.

Policies & Objectives

The policies and objectives below are applicable to this Local Section – they should, however, be read in conjunction with the Cornwall AONB Strategy Aims, Policies and Objectives which are applicable to the whole designation.

Policies

Objectives