This area shares similar landscape characteristics to the Helford River and estuary as described in Section 8, South Coast Western, but on a much larger scale. The main channel is formed where the River Fal meets the open sea, this stretch of water is known as the Carrick Roads. It is broad and deep, providing shelter in its deep-water harbour for ocean going vessels.

The mouth of the estuary is flanked by the historic landmarks of St Mawes Castle to the east and Pendennis Castle to the west (outside the AONB) – both important strategic fortifications guarding the Carrick Roads since the time of Henry VIII. The ria system of the Fal is more extensive with larger and more sinuous creeks than seen on the Helford and extends up to Truro at Malpas and Calenick.

On both banks of the Fal there has been a noticeable increase in the built environment with many of the original villages, established as a result of the former boat building, fishing and industrial trade now subject to further residential development namely, Flushing, Mylor Churchtown, Mylor Bridge, Restronguet Passage and Feock. The cumulative effects of this more recent development has given rise to areas of suburban character occupying the setting of traditional characterful villages with the greatest development pressure on areas with coastal views.

The slopes enclosing the Carrick Roads and creeks reflect a very similar landscape to the Helford but with a lesser concentration of woodland, which is replaced by large fields of pasture and arable land extending

down to the shoreline. North of Feock, upstream on the River Fal and the Truro and Tresillian Rivers, the creeks extend into more folded enclosed landforms where the estuarine woodland becomes more dominant and where large private estates such as Tregothnan have parkland and woodland extending down to the water’s edge.

The tidal rivers and coastal wetland provide important habitats for a wide variety of flora and fauna, with a few small villages located at the heads of the creeks such as Ruan Lanihorne, Calenick Creek, Old Kea and Feock. The ridges between the creeks are rounded with a medium-scale field pattern as evident in medieval times with farm holdings scattered throughout the area. The reorganisation of the field boundaries in the 18th and 19th century and the removal of hedge boundaries have provided a much greater sense of openness, especially on the farmland nearer to Truro and Falmouth. The sheltered microclimate of the creeks provides perfect growing conditions for more luxuriant plant life and the fine gardens and parkland of the National Trust gardens at Trelissick contain many delicate varieties of trees, shrubs and flowers. The River Fal below Trelissick can be crossed by the King Harry Ferry, a vehicular chain ferry which has operated between the parishes of Feock and Philleigh since 1888, although there is evidence that this stretch of river has been crossed by some form of craft for centuries.

Visually the dominant landcover is mature often dense estuarine Sessile Oak woodland cloaking the slopes along the water’s edge. In places this woodland is extensive and seemingly untouched by human interference despite a long history of productive management lending a timeless primeval air to the watercourses. In other parts woodland has been partially or fully cleared where occasional large fields come right to the water’s edge giving a more domesticated impression. This rich and productive farmland on the rounded convex hilltops between the creeks is a mix of pastoral and extensive arable uses giving considerable seasonal changes in colour. This seasonally changing agricultural scene is set in a constant and strong framework of Cornish hedges some of which display their construction in bare stone faces whilst many others are well vegetated and lined with mature trees strongly enclosing and defining the mostly small to medium irregular fields of medieval origin.

Further north, lays the historic village of St Just-in-Roseland, characteristically positioned at the head of a small creek and dominated by its exceptional 13th century church which is said to be of 6th century origin. Further north, along the banks of the Fal, the parish of St Michael Penkevil is a much-folded landscape of wooded valleys, large parts of which are managed by the Tregothnan Estate. Along the coast to the east of St Mawes, in sheltered bays, lay the coastal settlements of Porthscatho, Portloe and Portholland, all rooted in the pilchard fishing industry and still engaged with fishing today. The overriding sense of the Roseland is of an extremely tranquil and well-managed farmed landscape with a globally renowned, stunning coastline that extends east across Mevagissey Bay and on to St Austell Bay in the north.

Away from the coast, aside from the church towns of Veryan and Gorran, settlement is still sparse and consists of mainly small rural hamlets and farmsteads linked by narrow winding lanes. At narrow junctions, traditional black and white cast iron directional fingerposts echo a bygone era. In the Gorran High Lanes/ Mevagissey hinterland, an extensive area of fields bounded by modern concrete walls mark out the former extent of the Heligan estate, incompatible with this rural landscape.

Along the coast, there are many small fishing villages such as the attractive historic village of Mevagissey, once the centre of Cornwall’s pilchard fishing industry, which still retains its working harbour. Many of the old buildings in the village are constructed of cob and slate and bear testimony to a time when the large shoals of pilchards were the livelihood of the whole village. Nowadays Mevagissey is a popular tourist destination and commuter village for both St Austell and Truro.

From Mevagissey, the coast extends northward into St Austell Bay, past historic Pentewan, a small medieval fishing village, which, with its harbour, grew to be a significant port for the china clay industry. The AONB extends towards to Porthpean, just below St Austell, following the Pentewan trail, which runs adjacent to the White River, so named because of its milky appearance due to china clay sediments.

Woodland occurs on steep valley sides, alongside streams and in valley bottoms often in combination with other valuable wetland habitats such as fens and rush pasture strengthening these ribbons of semi natural vegetation that weave through the agricultural land.

The soils in this section of the AONB are derived from mid-Devonian slates and are well-drained and fertile providing perfect conditions for both arable and pastoral farming. Many of the medium scale fields are of medieval in origin with irregular boundaries ranging from bare stonewalls near the coast to broad and well vegetated hedges in the sheltered wooded valleys. Where streams flow along the valley floors there are valuable wetland habitats consisting of fens and rushes providing perfect conditions for a wide range of flora and fauna. Many of the stream valleys meet the coast where they terminate in sandy coves and beaches on the south coast such as Pendower Beach, Portholland and Caerhays. The geology along this stretch of the AONB consists of softer killas rocks, which form the cliffs and rocky shores of many of the bays and coves located between the harder basalt and dolerite rocks of Nare Head, Dodman Point and Black Head. The major headlands form promontories at over 100m above sea level whilst inland the landscape takes on a gentler undulating character.

There are many features of interest along this coast ranging from the historic Iron Age fortifications at Dodman Point, Black Head and Veryan to the large Bronze Age barrow at Carne Beacon, near Veryan. Country estates and ornamental parklands such as at Caerhays and Heligan have taken advantage of the sheltered valleys. The majority of woodland in this area is congruous with the lush woodland gardens of Heligan and Caerhays, and concentrated in the valleys, where it is dominated by oak and beech with sycamore and a few remaining elms. On the plateau, trees occur more frequently on Cornish hedges, as well as small groups around farm buildings. Few trees are found on the coast due to exposure and grazing pressure. Also characteristic in this section are groups of Monterey pines.

Partnerships and Neighbourhood Plans

• Parish Plans are in place at Feock, Gorran and St Ewe and the Roseland Neighbourhood Development Plan is now in place. The Roseland Plan covers the five parishes of St Just, Gerrans, Veryan, Ruan Lanihorne and Philleigh.
• The local group ‘Wild Roseland’ has been established to deliver biodiversity projects flowing from the recent Roseland Neighbourhood Development Plan.
• Mevagissey Neighbourhood Development Plan